Morethodoxy: Exploring the Breadth, Depth and Passion of Orthodox Judaism

Shimon Peres Hits a Home Run

My walk in Jerusalem trying to hug every Jew and Arab set the tone for a walk the next morning with my friends from the mission – the Christians because the Muslims went again to Al-Aqtsa, problem free.  But before that, I met up with the group for a 6:00 PM appointment with President Shimon Peres.  People were excited and I was excited.  It’s always exciting to meet the President of Israel – probably any country – but Shimon Peres has just been around so long and near the center of action in the Jewish state from its beginning that there is something historic about a visit with him.  The Indonesians were excited, and when we sat in a small room at Beit Hanasi, at the Presidential Palace, a room that barely fit our delegation of 24, there was a silence I had never seen in the group.  Something special.  

Peres came in, went around and shook everyone’s hands, and bonded with the leading Indonesian Muslim in our group because his mentor, the former president of Indonesia was a founding member of the Shimon Peres Institute.  Right away, then, President Peres was a bridge from the country with the largest Muslim population in the world, a country that had no relations with Israel, to the Jewish state where our group of Indonesians, Muslims, Christians and Jews was visiting.  It felt historic.  Then Shimon Peres spoke in such a dignified and wise way.  Like many other people – maybe the majority of Israelis – I have never really agreed with most of Shimon Peres’s policy ideas, and here, too, I had my disagreements (maybe I agree with Fayyad more! Oy!), even with key elements of what he was talking about.  But Peres wins you over, and we all fell in love and admiration with this 89 year old man who was sharp, witty – in a dry way – engaging and so stately.  I think he has gotten taller over the years!  I was captivated, but I was still able to eat the date and the chocolate bar that each of us got, as well as drink the coffee from the State of Israel little coffee cups that were served.

Shimon Peres, I think, was able to bring the group back to a feeling that Israel wants peace, wants to recognize the Palestinians, and is a democracy that is working hard to do the right thing.  The arguments and complaints against Israel hurled against the Foreign Ministry folks at lunch just seemed to roll away.  Peres was so chivalrous: he called upon a woman with a question even though the moderator wanted more of a macher to ask the question – so dignified and sensitive.  

At the end of the session I had my big moment:  Parents of one of my best and dearest friends had given me Peres’s book, The New Middle East, right after Oslo – almost 20 years ago.  And Rachel and I had still kept it on our shelf in the living room – I had actually read it.  It was a bit of fantasy about cooperation and peace in the Middle East, but again, Peres might have been wrong about the details, but here was a man with vision.  I remembered the book as soon as I saw Peres would be on the itinerary – I would bring the book with me to Israel and have him sign it!!  Believe it or not, I actually got the book to Israel and, after having forgot it initially, remembered to bring it to our meeting with President Peres.  So right after his talk – he gave us a lot of time, nearly an hour – I went right up to him and asked him to sign his book.  He was still a believer in the New Middle East, and all of there, after his speech, were also believers.  I gave him a pen, which I had gotten from the hotel in Ramallah (he didn’t know that), and he signed: With My Best Wishes, Shimon Peres.  So there you have it: the man wrote about the New Middle East, had signed on it, and by meeting with our group was continuing to work on it after all these years of some ups but mostly downs.  One day, perhaps in ways he could not imagine, Shimon Peres’s vision will come true.  With God’s help – and he did speak to us about his belief in God.

Of course after our inspired meeting with Shimon Peres, when we were all floating, we had another session with an amazing Bedouin woman doing incredible things for women’s empowerment in the Bedouin community.  There was also an amazing group Save a Child’s Heart, which works to train cardiologists all over the world – including in Palestinian and Arab doctors.  And Naomi Chazan of the New Israel Fund.  But what could have been an inspiring session turned into a kvetching session: One of our group said: It’s great that Israel does so much good saving lives abroad, but why does it discriminate against its Arab population and the Palestinians.  That member of our group went on to read an article from Haaretz about Arab families in a dispute with the local school district so the kids have to walk miles to get to school.  And that wonderful Indonesian quoted a Hadith (Muslim tradition) that Muhammad cared for everyone, even the cats.  It really got me so frustrated!  Look at all the Muhammadan countries and see if they care about anyone in their country – citizens, minorities, guest workers, Palestinians – as good as Israel.  

So this trip was complicated: It did not hide the struggles of Israel to build a just and moral state.  But on the other hand, I don’t think our group really gets that Israel was built pretty much from scratch in a mortal, life of death, battle against every Arab state and Arabs within the country – except for the Arabs of Abu Gosh who were loyal to the new Jewish state. Yet, as I would come to find out, despite not really getting a lot of Israel, people – even the self described Fundamentalist Indonesian Muslim in our group – really did get that Israel was a democracy and was sincerely trying to do the right thing.  That was perhaps the biggest lesson here: The truth comes out, and despite members of our delegation being detained at the border with Jordan, and one of them not being let in, and the Muslims having to run out of al-Aqsa when Israeli soldiers had to come in, and despite the searing criticism of Israel found in Israeli newspapers – despite it all, people came to love Israel and to respect this amazing country.  It will make a big difference when they go back to Indonesia, and I think something important was started here.

The next morning, Tuesday morning a group of us headed for Damascus gate, the shuk, the Via Delarosa, the Kotel and back through the shuk to the hotel.  The weather again was gorgeous – it felt warm – and everyone was friendly.  I pointed out that Jews unfortunately do not go beyond Jaffa gate to walk down to Damascus gate even though the area is so beautiful.  The light rail trains move up and down, and their ultra modern look and sound adds a wonderful feel to the Old City, the city not only of the past but of the future as well.  The tracks are grassy, and it give the feel of walking in a garden even though we were walking on a sidewalk along the walls.  We met up with a group of teens and I says “Sabah el Cheir” (good morning in Arabic) and we got into a conversation with them, me, the rabbi in a kippa, introducing these Arabs – Palestinians probably – to my friends the Indonesians.  And we took pictures – pictures are as important to Indonesians as they are to Japanese… and to the Tesslers (Rachel’s family).

Just an amazing feeling of connecting and being together in Jerusalem and the potential for Jews and Israelis and Arabs and Palestinians to connect.  OK.  This was not dealing with terrorism, or Hamas’s rockets terrorizing Beer Sheva, or Hizbollah terrorizing the north, etc.  But it did show our group that the younger generation is willing to engage – even more than their parents – and is not bitter and angry, but positive and hopeful.  That was really the number one lesson that I think our Indonesian friends will take home.  And that is incredible – it helps them think positively about Israel, rather than carrying negative, hateful feelings.  If young Palestinians are not hateful, neither should Muslims around the world be.  The hateful speech of the Jordanian minister was totally out of place and nullified.

Perhaps Hashem got directly involved in that the Kotel was the most pleasant, calm place for all of us.  Rev. Chloe, of the Episcopal church in New York, said how peaceful and inspiring the Kotel was for her as she spent 15 minutes on her own in the women’s section.  And in the men’s section, not only were there no schneurers to bother my Indonesian friends, but adorable little 6 year olds from a nearby Yeshiva, who were in the middle of davening, were willing to pose and smile for pictures with the Indonesians.  I took so many pictures.  It was really like we were in one big play, and everyone was told to act happy and friendly.  Was it all a show in Ramallah and the Kotel?  I actually don’t think so.  But it was surreal – like Fantasy Island.  We sang Ma Tovu, and the Wall really felt holy.  And there are new, cloth kippot!  No longer those card board kippot.  There is dignity at the kotel.  Wow!  Things have changed – at least that morning.

On the way to the kotel, going through the shul that starts from Damascus gate, we passed by the Christian landmark of the Way of the Cross, the Via Delarosa.  And right at the fifth station (or maybe the 8th station) there was a large delegation Christian leaders, and our Episcopalian in the group, Rev. Chloe, met and Indian Orthodox priest who had attended the General Theological Seminary in New York – where Chloe had studied – and had studied with the same patristics (study of the Patriarchal church) teacher.  What a Jerusalem moment!  It was like meeting old friends on Ben Yehuda or Emek Refaim – but this was the Christian version, at the Via Delarosa!  What a city!

The rest of the day continued with this dreamlike quality.  Rabbi Sid Schwarz put a lot of work into the trip, but he could not have imagined the incredible warm, sunny weather that made Neve Shalom, the model community of Jews, Christians and Muslims, so stunning.  It is a magnificent location on a hill overlooking Latrun – and an impressive monastery – and with views of the high rises of Modiin in the background.  I walked along the paths in this charming town with my friend Nogrohu, who is the leader of the Unitarian church in Indonesia.  Indonesians are old school: they take your hand and walk with you, so we were walking arm in arm through this Garden of Peace – with the wind rustling every leaf, the sun shining and everything looking possible. The sound of peace.  This was Israel.  

Neve Shalom (Walat AsSalam) is 40 years old and well thought out.  They discussed how they have rejected the vaunted Harvard ideas about negotiation – it doesn’t work for them.  But with their own systems, they have built mixed Arab-Jewish schools which educate hundreds of students.  I pushed them on how they celebrate Israel Independence Day and Naqba Day – one Palestinian narrative of what happened to them with the creation of Israel – and at first they shied away from talking about it.  When we got to the actual school building they opened up with a fascinating story of how these two holidays are celebrated and commemorated: At first, the teacher decided to have one wall for Yom Ha’atzmaut and another wall for Yaum anNaqba.  But the students complained and demanded that the narratives be mixed on the same walls.  I take that as a metaphor – divorce is not the solution; the solution is bringing these incredible peoples – my own, the Jews, and the one I have connected to on this trip, the Palestinians – together to learn from each other, to laugh together, to share their passions with one another.

From Neve Shalom to Tel Aviv.  We had an incredible session with The Family Circle/Bereaved Families Group.  A mother of a Jewish soldier killed by a sniper; a brother of a Palestinian killed in a scuffle at a check point.  The ability of these people to transform bitterness to a desire for peace and positive thinking is incredible.  The mother read us a poem she wrote on the day her son’s killer was to be released – along with hundreds of others – in the Gilad Shalit exchange; the brother talked about his experience of years in jail – he was a Palestinian terrorist – which led him to promote non-violent resistance.  Ali, the brother, said to the Jews in our group, “Your fear is our greatest enemy.” Meaning, if Palestinians want to succeed in their goals they are going to have to prove to Israelis that they don’t need to fear them.  That will not be – and should not be – easy after the two Intifadas which killed over a thousand Israeli civilians – and all the wars the Arabs have waged against the Jewish state.  But at least he tells the truth to his own people – that causing less fear, not more, is the way to resolving the issues.  From what I saw on this trip, and a previous Encounter trip to Bethlehem, the more contact Jews and Israelis have with Palestinians, in a peaceful, normal setting, the more that fear will dissipate – and that will be a good thing, as long as Israel remains vigilant and focused on her own needs.

The session took place in the Dan Tel Aviv, in a room that overlooked the waves of the Mediterranean.  Just stunning.  At the end of the session, we had a ten minute break.  I headed for the beach with our American Indonesian interpreter.  Just across HaYarkon street.  Awesome.  I took off my shoes and socks and waded into the water – still in my suit.  It felt wonderful – not even so cold.  Had I taken my bathing suit I would have gone for a swim.  What a blessed country is Israel, our holy land, the Jewish state.  More than anything I want people from all over the world to feel its glory.  This mission was a start. For dinner we went to a super trendy restaurant in the Old Train Station which is like a Navy Pier or a Quincy Market (Boston) which has been restored and filled with restaurants and bars and shops, with music coming out of a big dancing tent.  Tel Aviv is a bit too trendy for me – I could never dress up to speed.  I’m more like the guy wearing the suit at the beach.  But the energy of a cutting edge city in this ancient land still feels good.

At the airport to head back to the States, with our entire mission, the Foreign Ministry sent a representative to help smooth our going through security.  Still there was a bit of a “balagan” (convusion)- but at least the security people apologized.  And still they opened up all the suitcases of the Muslims, filled with Qur’ans and stuff we got from Indonesia.  But everyone was polite, and the Foreign Ministry really tried and did a pretty good job of getting us through.

And now off to Washington for meetings with the State Dept, White House and Congress.    

As I am on the plane, I yearn, of course, to return to Israel, but also to connect with all the people that live in our Holy Land: Palestinians, Jews, Christians, Muslims – everyone who appreciates God’s gift to the world.

Shalom al Yisrael

Hanan Ashrawi is still a player after all these years.  She is the only woman on the Fatah executive,  and she runs a Palestinian women’s organization as well.  Now, I don’t know if that organization is a front for something, but part of the time she is at PLO HQ, and part of the time with her organization.  I guess it was our luck that when we visited her, she was at PLO Headquarters.  We all know the terrorism, murder and horrors, both against the Jewish people and Israel and against their own Palestinian people, that went on from PLO headquarters in various countries.  At the same time, it was kind of a strange, surreal feeling standing at the entrance of glassy, brand spankin’ new PLO HQ high rise in Ramallah, with my big white kippa, taking pictures with my Indonesian friends.  The guards were actually pretty nice – they smile more than Israeli guards, but less than Indonesian guards.  Still, I felt totally comfortable – and welcomed – as a Jew and a rabbi at the PLO building.  I do think times have changed – of course that doesn’t mean that peace has broken out.

And actually, Hanan Ashrawi has not changed at all.  The 24 of us were ushered into a room with water bottles next to each of us – that was standard for all the meetings, except for with Prime Minister Fayyad we got also an extra orange juice, and some places gave us sweets as well.  I shook her had when I came in, and the truth is is that she really looks much better in person than on the camera.  She looks younger in person as well – even younger than I remember her looking in the 90‘s when she was CNN and Nightline every evening.  

Behind Hanan Ashrawi was the PLO flag, which I guess was not changed since a few decades ago: it still had the entire picture of Israel as Palestine.  And if front of us we were given some PLO letterhead stationary with the entire State of Israel as … Palestine.  I was going to ask her about this, but really, the thing that has changed the least is that Hanan Ashrawi is still saying the same lines she has said even since the 70’s when she began secret negotiations – according to her – with the Israelis as a representative of the  PLO.  Palestinians, according to her, have done all the compromise and all the giving.  The Two State Solution – which she knows is what everybody in the room (except for me) is desperate for, is rapidly running out of time, according to her, and it is all Israel’s fault.  Well, it’s also the fault of America and the Republicans.  Settlements, siege of Gaza, Price Tag people (who are, indeed an issue, but not the real reason for peace not happening), etc. etc. Palestinians have agreed to 22% of the land they really should have, and they are the victims and Israel is the Occupier, which wants to have the Jordan valley as well even if they give the Palestinians a little bit of land.  To me it was clear that if you fast-forward ten years, and Israel would give the Palestinians land, she will be saying the same thing – siege, Jordan valley, checkpoints, Jerusalem, return of refugees, etc. etc.  

Of course, she is smart and always has an answer that it is Israel’s fault.  My friend the Imam from Washington, Yahya Hendi, who had been denied entering Israel (from Jordan), but met us in Ramallah, asked Hanan Ashrawi: Isn’t it important for Palestinians to look at themselves for what they could do to improve things or help the process – he used the old Zionist term of “self-emancipation”?  Earlier, Rabbi Melchior had brilliantly done this and said that it is so easy to blame others, but you have to start by looking at yourself – and Peres said the same thing.  But Hanan Ashrawi said No!  The Palestinians are the victims here, and there is nothing they can or should be doing different.  All Israel.  But at the same time, “I don’t like the mentality of the victim…”  So she has it both ways…  But she does it so well!  

Some of the Christians in the group realized that her words were a bit of a snow job when she said about Hamas that they do accept a Two State solution, and that they have been amazingly flexible, and that “It’s going to take time for Hamas to get there…”  Her view was that having one side of the government that perhaps wants to destroy Israel: “We should have a right to pluralism… for people to disagree…”

OK.  That’s the picture. 

The one interesting part of the meeting was that she spoke about women in government in the Palestinian Authority – 25% of the ministers are women, there are 22 women judges, the mayor and governor of Ramalla is a woman – interesting.  She seems like on this issue she may be really doing some good, and she has some insight.  “Women go into civil society and good governance, but not into politics…” It was insightful, but interesting that there is that wall between good governance and the government itself.  She also said that women should control security, not men.  I did not see any women Palestinian guards or police.  But from the Israeli side, anecdotally on our trip, the women guards saved the day several times as far as civility and relating to our group.

Ashrawi: “We cannot use the Occupation as an excuse for all our sins.”  But she used it as an excuse to bash Israel and for the lack of peace.

So we left, with a picture, and smiles, but, frankly, disappointed that nothing had changed.

But then, we got in the bus and headed for the Palestinian governmental building to meet Prime Minister Salam Fayyad.  Again, Guards around Fayyid’s office were very polite – even friendly. Very fancy uniforms. 

I rarely use capitals in email, but FAYYAD!  I’m mamash choked up by who he is and what he’s saying. So refreshing. He is modest, he is honest, he is thoughtful, he says things contrary to his interest if they are true, and contrary to the common wisdom. He is self defacing and has a diminutive sense of humor. I had never met him, and I didn’t even know what he looked like.  He came into a very fancy room – with really nice leather chairs – and in a humble and even shlumped-over way, went around shaking our hands.  We felt the modesty that the Indonesian foreign minister exuded – and that is a high standard.  He seems more of an introvert.  He started by thanking us for being there and saying he was looking for advice from us, “We can certainly use it!”

Fayyad is the first leader I have heard who actually said not to panic that time is running out, that actually now is the time to push off the “time envelope” and that conditions are not right for an effective resumption of discussions. He was taking responsibility for not resuming peace talks, but rather than blame the Israelis, he laid out many factors in the world that would logically lead him to not wanted to have major negotiations at this time.  That is fine!  He said that the US attitude is that settlements (I use the term he used; I prefer the term “communities”) are illegal – or at least an obstacle to peace.”  Now that impressed me: he could have just left it at illegal, but he didn’t.  He wants to be honest that different American administrations have different attitudes.  He was just so logical – it was such a mechaya!  Of course the Palestinians would not want to sit down now and negotiate: American elections, Arab spring is diverting Europe’s attention, the European debt crisis, a right wing government in Israel where Netanyahu cannot get anything through.  Yes, he is the leader of the Palestinian government so he is pushing their side.  But he does so honestly, and it makes sense.  As Margaret Thatcher said of Gorbachev: This is a man we can do business with.

He is against the pre-occupation of getting the negotiating process going.  What that says to Israel is that they, too, should not be jumping in hoops to ensure the Palestinians come to the table.  

Fayyad said basically, let’s focus on the issues we can deal with, on issues that are important to Palestinians but that Israel – and the right or left wing in Israel – doesn’t really care about.  He talked about maintenance issues, security issues, issues that Israel can change on without it hitting the newspapers in Israel.  Oy!  This is such a smart man!  He didn’t even mention Jerusalem.  He didn’t obsess about settlements. He admitted that when Israel came in to the towns in Spring 2002 to restore security (at the hight of the Second Intifada), internal Palestinian security and control was bad.  Now, he says, things are much improved.  And, the fact that I could would around so comfortable with my kippa in Ramallah says that things are under tight control.  Importantly, he said that if you wanted to give the Palestinians hope, give them elections!  Now that didn’t work so well in Gaza, but at least he is taking internal responsibility for Palestinian problems.  

I asked a question about free markets, and he embraced it, and applauded the Chicago school of economics, and talked about developing the Palestinian pharmaceutical industry.  “One of my better days…” was when they initiated exports of a drug to Germany.  This is a man that is really taking Netanyahu’s idea of building up the economy first, before statehood, seriously.  Fayyad, said, and I quote, “We are not a country yet.”  I just cannot go on to much about this man.  When we were taking photos I said that it says a lot about the Palestinians that they have a Prime Minister like this.  It does.  They may have a lot of problems – they may still want to destroy all of the Jewish state – but Salam Fayyad cannot be ignored.  I was so excited that I whipped off an email to one of our more famous members who undoubtedly spent a lot of time with Fayyad and he agreed: a very good man.

OK.  I think you get the picture.  Worth going to Ramallah to meet Fayyad.

We got back on the bus, and I could not bring myself to go see Arafat’s tomb, which is right in front of Abbas’s palace like building. I did not want to accord him any honor. He died with blood on his hands – Jewish and Palestinian. Another rabbi stayed in the bus with me. 

And then it was off to the only Five Star hotel in Ramallah – though the charming, bustling city has other hotels and deserves more Five Star ones – Hotel Movenpick (Swiss).  We got an unbelievable welcome. Hot towels. Drinks. Quick service to get our rooms. Free wifi in room. Unbelievable. Smiles and attention from a huge staff who smiled throughout our stay.  I loved this hotel!

After freshening up, we headed for three Palestinian homes to meet the folks and hear their stories.  Our host, Najah and his wife and six kids.  Najah was a professor at Beir Zeit University.  And he brought in his 80 year old father and his mother, with her head covered.  She looked just like a Russian Babushka.  The grandfather looked like an old Arab Sheikh, and a prominent picture in the room had him shaking hands with a smiling Yassir Arafat.  This family had had Jews over before, and the grandparents, originally from Hebron, told stories about life in Hebron.  The family would regularly borrow money from a wealthier Jewish family which refused to take any interest.  But they were honest about the 1929 massacre, and that the Jews and Christians were squeezed out of Hebron, and that these were indigenous Jews who had lived there for hundreds of years.  In fact, they talked of Jews only being allowed to go to the seventh step near the Cave of the Patriarchs; not allowed to go in – that was only for Muslims.  But I don’t think the Muslims in our party got that.  I don’t think there is any realizations even in the modern, friendly Muslim community to the discrimination that Islam historically had against Jews.  These Palestinians know about that, and were honest about it. In fact the mentioned that there remained three formerly Jewish families in Hevron who converted to Islam so as not to be killed. 

The daughter Reem, studying at Beir Zeit: nothing against Jews, just Israel – people coming from abroad calling us terrorists… On the one hand, there is a basic anti-Israel attitude clearly embedded in the Beir Zeit student population – and probably almost all kids – but on the other hand, it was claer to me that this was not a well-developed angry and bitter feeling.  The kids were good natured, happy kids, living relatively normal lives.  But what impressed the Muslims in the group was that the kids had not been to Jerusalem for 10 years.  And it’s true that they would need a permit to get in, but it wasn’t clear how desperate they were to get into Jerusalem.  In any event, the whole family was good natured. The kids – ages 14 – 20  did not at all obsess on their anger towards Israel. In fact, their father,  Najah, complained that people today were just interested in cars and electronics and didn’t care about politics and fighting for the cause. 

They regaled us with a great story of Najah’s brother, a Fatah heavy who got into trouble with Arafat and Warren Christopher for, nebech, threatening a Christian man who married the woman the brother wanted to marry… He was jailed and exiled to Canada, but now he is once again buddies with the Fatah and living again in Ramallah. 

Our host family’s wife is name Rafika – Rebecca – and we discussed that it was like my Rachel’s name which in Hebrew Rivkah Leah!

We went back to the hotel, spending the night in Ramallah, and happy to do so.

A guard at the checkpoint the next morning was surprised I had been to Ramallah with a kippa.  But it was actually hard to leave Ramallah: It is important not to be lulled into a false romance for this warm, friendly welcoming people, who, as a people, are not yet comforable with the existence of a Jewish state, the state of my people.  But whether it was the hotel or the feel of the city and the people we met, it was hard to leave! We crossed the Qalandia checkpoint where I did some schmoozing with the woman guard to get us through, and Pisgat Zeev suddenly appeared – 5 minutes from Ramallah. Pisgat Zev and the Arab neighborhodd Beit Chanina (Arab) share a mall (Kanyon Hapisgah). 

Now, we are back in Jerusalem.  We had lunch with the foreign ministry which did a yeoman’s job of defending Israel.  Yes, soldiers had to go into the Al-Aqtza area, and even ask people to leave; but it was because rioters were throwing lethal stones on the Jewish worshippers at the Kotel below (this is a century’s old practice, unfortunately).  I just don’t think many in our group understand what Israel is facing.  But the Foreign Ministry was good.

The restaurant, Gabriel’s, made a great steak, and it was located in a charming new, outdoor mall on Shimon Ben Shettach just off of Shlomzion hamalka at Ben Sira.  Right near the house where Zev Jabotinsky lived when he was allowed into Palestine in the 20’s.  I hope and believe Jabotinsky would be OK with making peace with people – Muslims, Christians – who dwell in the Jewish state.  Once Israel is strong, and remains strong, that is when Jabotinsky believed it was time for partnership and cooperations with the Arab population in the Jewish state.  I agree!

After the lunch meeting I had to get out… Not only to see Jerusalem, but I felt this energy come over me to connect. Honestly, I felt like I wanted to walk up to every Jew and Palestinian and give them a big hug! Crazy!  I took a walk along the grassy train tracks on this beautiful sunny warm late winter day when Jerusalem was shinier than ever. Just a stunning walk down from Jaffa gate and city hall to Damascus gate into the shuk, saying hi to people and heading for the Kotel and beyond…

Tomorrow, President Shimon Peres.  Today we head for the kotel with the group.

Until then, from a sparkling Jerusalem,

Shalom al Yisrael

Woke up early and had a certain energy – I really think that Jerusalem, Shabbat and being with this diverse group gave me this high to connect with those around me and basically spread Jewish and Zionist love. 

We hopped in the bus, and it took us about twenty minutes in rush hour traffic  to get to the outskirts of Ramallah and transfer through the Qalandia checkpoint – though there was a lot of traffic around that checkpoint, in both directions.

Ramallah is a prosperous and booming!  There are incredible high rises going up when you come in – dozens of new buildings. It is a very pretty city, chariming – very different than Amman which was not uplifting or inspiring.  Here there are hills and vistas, old and new buildings. Built on hills like Jerusalem, but in some ways has even better green space with trees in between low rises and houses. 

The northern outskirts of Ramallah, where we were going, driving through Bir Zeit, are really beautiful – hills, apartment buildings, olive groves, sweeping roads.    Beautiful neighborhoods nestled in the Judean Hills.  The housing is old fashioned – some of it Ottoman, no doubt – and even the new apartment buildings work with the surrounding scenery.  Unfortunately, there is garbage all over, so it is certainly not pristine, but it is pleasant and uplifting to drive around.

Occasionally we see Palestinian police in smart blue and bright green uniforms and blue cars.  We pass Abu Gash another charming Arab town nestled on a hilltop till we get to our first destination, Jiffna, which is in the valley, with horses roaming in green fields – really a bucolic, countryside feel, relaxed – frozen in time almost.  Reminded me of Oxfordshire or Yorkshire, especially with a gentle fog that was descending in the morning.

My iPhone reads as its carrier: Jawwal Palestine… We are not in Jerusalme… A bit eerie, also strange to have BZU – Beir Zeit University – on my list of wifi networks. But it’s locked…

We went to a Catholic church for Sunday prayers, and because I don’t go into church sanctuaries, I stood in the back, near the door, under the entranceway.  So I became kind of the “rabbi greeter” to everyone coming late through the back door…  There aren’t many Christians anymore – a few percentage of the Arab population in this area, even though Ramalla was originally a Christian city.  It is a big issue that honest Palestinians recognize – why have all the Christians left?  They of course to not say it is because they have been intimidated…

It was a typical Arabic Sunday morning service. The Priest, certainly knowing we were visiting on a piece mission said: “We can all live together…”  I was told later that it was a classic Catholic service, just in the vernacular – Arabic.

I saw a kid with a sippy cup, like shul…

There was a small, charming choir, and the acoustics and singing were great.  Then the spice came – I was sneezing already from the intense “shuk like” spicy smell. I think because it was not the smells I usually enjoy and the fact that I was coughing,  sneezing and my eyes were tearing helped with any questions of getting “hana’ah – pleasure” from a foreign religion. But the music was beautiful – with the organ and the mostly woman choir – led by a man and a male organ master. 

The traditional greeting which comes towards the end of a Christian services was – of course – in Arabic – Asalam aleikum.

Beethoven’s 9th was the tune for a hymn in Arabic – but I don’t know what the words were. Very powerful music – I aways tear up for it – even though I don’t know the meaning of the words in German or Arabic. 

Service ended with announcements – like shul!  And kiddush  after services – and them a responsive prayer – something like “let us pray”- and then a somber song – not a crazy Adon olam with kids on the bima…. I do miss home!

Everyone very extremely friendly and warm – men, women and even teens. That’s really the most pronounced part of this 24 stay in Ramallah – people are friendly and responsive.  I did not see them staring at my kippah at all, nor did I feel uncomfortable.  We all know that terrorist who have killed our brothers and sisters – and our Jewish children! – have come from these kind of places.  But it was easy to connect with all the people we met.  Kiddush was kiddush – with small cups of coffee and a bachlava which I didn’t eat – and people were happy to talk and smile and be polite and welcoming.

Everyone, even when telling their stories against the Israeli oppression, was very good natured. A man who married woman from Gaza and had trouble getting her into Ramallah spoke at length, telling his story – which ended with her finally getting permission for her and her brother to come to West Bank. 

“Security is the main issue, but…” talked of land confiscation and the fence. 

A lot of talk of not being able to travel to Jerusalem, or leave Bethlehem. The assistant priest talked about Good Friday last year when Passover, Easter,  and Eastern Easter all fell on same day. Muslims Salafies yelled and cursed the Christians. The Israeli security guard pushed the Patriarch – but the message was that the Patriarch said in both cases: we are not here to fight; we are here to pray. The lesson was that the Christians want to be a “Bridge for peace between Jews and Muslims”. 

Everyone at this church could not have been friendlier.Even the Kids and teenagers! It was like a monument to peace – like a Hollywood facade. But I think in many ways it is genuine – not to say that there aren’t crucial security concerns that our State of Israel has to contend with. 

We headed back south to Ramallah and the ride was beautiful – Beir Zeit, just north of Ramallah, is like the Tayelet – sharp slope of trees. Stunning scenery.  We passed the many coffee shop chain: Star and Bucks Coffee!!  Green logo and everything…

Next stop: PLO Headquarters and Hanan Ashrawi.  

Forgive me, but it’s time to daven and head back to Jerusalem, so I will update the rest of my Ramallah day – and an incredible encounter with Prime Minister Fayyad who is just off the charts, amazing, humble, brilliant, honest man – in the next status update as soon as possible.

Until then,

Shalom al Yisrael

It’s Sunday morning, and after a glorious Shabbat in Jerusalem, we are heading for Ramallah to meet our Palestinian “brothers”. 

Eight Hours in Dubai: More Enlightening than I Thought

I had been looking forward to spending a little time in Dubai, on our way from Jakarta to Amman and finally, Thursday night to Jerusalem. However, it turned into a mini adventure that put the day’s activities into perspective.

This morning was a great session hammering out a consensus statement from the group. Many Muslim leaders – from the States and Indonesia – emphasized how important it was for the Arab world and the Muslim world to recognize the State of Israel – but, of course, they wanted it along with recognizing either the rights of the Palestinians to a state, or, some beyond that, to outright recognizing Palestine. 

In the end, we crafted a document that recognized the national aspirations of both the Israelis and the Palestinians. I was very happy with that language which did not attempt to propose a political solution to achieve that goal.

But it was impressive that Muslims had moved their people so close to recognizing Israel. 

After the session, one of the Indonesians worked hard to explain how Hana – in Javanese, meaning existence, was like – אהיה אשר אהיה – I will be Whom I will be. I don’t always understand them, but all the Indonesians – Christian and Muslim – are proud of how the Javanese culture has integrated Hinduism and Buddahism with Islam. 

Dr Yousuf – of the NU organization which represents the 30 million Muslims, mentioned yesterday, sat next to me on the bus to the airport and he said the organization stands for: Moderation, Tolerance, Balance.

Interestingly: Indonesians wear ties – the don’t interpret the Qur’anic verse of prohibiting going in the ways of the pagans (like the Torah’s “uv’chukoteihem lo telechu – the ways of the gentiles) in the way the Iranians or the old ulama (religious leaders) used to. They consider prohibiting ties to be merely a political prohibition. Kids in the religious boarding school we saw yesterday wore ties as did their teachers…

So that’s Indonesia. Smiles – sincere smiles – from everyone, and at least the language of tolerance and respect. Felt so comfortable there – so welcome. The government might not be doing enough to fight the forces of intolerance, but at least they seem to believe in respect and tolerance for all.

And on Emirates Airlines we felt the same way: they have kosher meals on Emirates – from Belgium. Not so good, but very kosher. And they have good Scotch (Glenfiddich 15…). So the airline was fine.

But Dubai is a world apart – no more smiles from anybody. What a contrast!

And with the five Jews in our group of 24 wearing kippot, it didn’t take long for the trouble, or challenges that I wrote of on Facebook just a few hours ago. A soldier/officer type asked me how many Jews were in the group. And while I answered, that I thought about 5, I really didn’t feel good about answering. Both the Muslims and the Christians in the group that were aware of the reason for the delay – that soldier had to ask his superiors, etc. – were very supportive. One Imam offered to wear a kippah. The Episcopalian was not happy with the excuse the guard in the white robe gave that there was no problem with Jews in Dubai, just for our own protection we had to either cover our kippot with a hat or take them off.

Some of us joked that this felt like an Entebbe moment – I cannot remember when I personally have ever been selected or separated as a Jew. In the end a Palestinian American Imam schmoozed with the guard, and tried to sensitize him to how it would feel if a Muslim woman were asked to remove her head covering. We shared Hadith about Muhammad and Jews who liked him. There is a lot of work to be done, but still believe it starts with relationship building.

So I sign off from an ornate hotel room in a glitzy hotel in Dubai, wearing my kippa. The guard said we could inside the hotel… I want to see how things will be in Jordan, Ramallah and Bethlehem. But I am with a great group, and we are all growing together.

Layla tov and Shalom al Yisrael,

Asher Lopatin

I’m overwhlemed and energized with one full day in Indonesia: A land of gracious, humble people who are courageously breaking from a fog and taking a new look at Israel and the Middle East. But I’m getting a bit ahead of myself, so please allow me to recap today’s events:

After waking up earlier than I had wanted, davening – facing West still – and scarfing down some tuna wraps, I had a bit of time to walk around our hotel.  Of course it’s impossible to “discover” Indonesia or even Jakarta by a 30 minute walk around the hotel, but I did discover gracious people all of whom smiled at me when I smiled at them – strangers, simple folks, deep frying food in the street for breakfast all around the area.  Indonesians are big foodies, and even just the fruit, which is all I have been eating, is fresh and delicious.  There is an element of innocence in this tropical Republic of 260 million people.  I know that’s probably naive, but the people’s responsiveness is captivating.  I only wish that when we wish “Shabbat shalom” to people around us, those we know and don’t know, that we get the same kind of warm, friendly, no-strings-attached response.  Im yirtzeh Hashem – may it be God’s will.  

We started with a visit to the Cathedral (Catholic), which overlooks the Independence Mosque, which overlooks the Protestant church. There certainly are issues with elements in Indonesia not being tolerant and burning churches. However, official line is one of tolerance and respect, and the Muslim organizations are supporting that. In fact, Dr. Yusuf, the co-chair from Indonesia of our mission, heads a 30 million strong Muslim organization and political party – he was a member of parliament – and he told me that his
Muslim organization sends its members to guard churches on Christmas. The
Minister of Defense of the largest Muslim country – is Catholic!

You go from the Cathedral, the biggest church in Indonesia, to the biggest Mosque in Southeast Asia (third biggest in the world), by crossing the street. The Istiqlal Mosque means independence mosque. Like many things in Indonesia, it is built with gematria symbols – the hight of this represents this, the length of this represents this, etc. Apparently, that is a Javanese influence – everything is symbolic. It was pointed out that the architect for the Istiqlal Mosque, Frederick Sylavan (sp?) was Christian and also designed the Lutheran church. In the mosque is a 300 year old drum – called a batuk – and… it’s a Hindu minhag (custom) taken over by Islam here. They use it twice a day to call people to prayer (even though prayers are 5 times a day…).

When you look out in the direction of the qibla – Mecca – you see the spires of the Protestant church. Everything in this country speaks of tolerance and blending and taking from other cultures. True, there were almost no Jews here to speak of – perhaps 1000 at its peak – but that makes the warmth here toward the Jews in the delegation even more surprising and powerful. The Muslim leaders in the group – some of them anthropologists, some studying women and Islam – are eager to learn, not only more about Judaism, but also about Israel. They are excited to be going, and everyone repeats that this is an historic gathering of leaders who really want to make a difference.

We met with some young boys and girls – the girls sit in the back, behind the boys – learning in the mosque school, and I even was introduced as a rabbi who knows the first chapter of the Qur’an (the Fatiha) by heart. I think they thought the whole thing strange… But as Indonesians, they were polite and clapped at the end…

From the Cathedral and Mosque we went to an ornate building, Independence Hall, where the Indonesian Declaration of Independence was signed, to meet with the foreign minister. Gold all over, crystal chandeliers, sitting around a fancy table with place cards – for some reason I sat right next to the Foreign Minister and our host, the Ambassador to Washington, Ambassador Jallal. White glove service of tea with Equal packets – what a country! – and sweets (not kosher- but they looked nice).

The foreign minister is a humble, youthful engaging man, tall, man who introduced himself and then asked us all to speak. After our leader, Rabbi Sid Schwarz, introduced the goals of the mission – to use religion to bring peace to the Middle East – he asked to hear from us. I urged him to bring the engaging, tolerant culture of Indonesia to the Middle East. I would love for Indonesia to recognize Israel. In subsequent conversation, we got the foreign minister to declare his support for a Two State Solution, but not – yet – to recognize Israel. Indonesia does “recognize” Palestine, and it even has a Palestinian embassy in Jakarta. But we tried…

Indonesians are the most humble and modest people I think I have ever met – Jews are supposed to be that way – and we are deep down – but Indonesians are that way from the moment you meet them and they smile back when you smile, and say hello – everyone, from the stranger on the street to the people you sit around the table with talking about the Middle East. The Ambassador, who came a few minutes late to the table, apologized not only to the group, but to me personally – how ironic, Mr. On Time Rabbi – for coming late. Amazing people. I need to remember to get a kippa for the Ambassador – he asked for one for his birthday.

And… all the Indonesian diplomats are using iPads. Very cool.

Foreign minister said he was very supportive of the goals of mission – admires “inclusive outlook”. Praise for Ambassador Dino Jallal who made the mission happen. Indonesia is proud of its motto: Unity in diversity. And he claimed that they practice on a day to day basis. He admitted that there were challenges from those less tolerant. But overall adherence to respect, etc. “Interfaith tolerance is in our DNA…”

From the Foreign Ministry – which occupies Independence Hall – we went to a modern building for lunch at the Religion Ministry. I had three courses of delicious fruit. So far I have subsided on a lot of fruit and the tuna sandwiches. The tune is fine; I am praying hard that all this delicious fruit will be OK.

The Assistant Minister of Religion who sat at our table, emphasized that at its moment of independence Indonesia specifically avoided calling itself an Islamic state. They are not. But, on the other hand, there is not a full separation of church and state. It’s not religious but not secular.

After lunch we headed for an Islamic Boarding school. There are thousands of these, throughout Indonesia, and they are even more religious than the government religious schools. Kind of like Israel and America: There are public schools, days schools (Mamlachti Dati/Torani in Israel) and then Yeshivas and seminars…

But these frumest of the schools still are co-ed – girls and boys have separate classes and separate dormitories fare away from each other – and we got to spend some fun time with the kids. They were all delightful, engaging, smiling, sweet – everything that their adult counterparts are. Very unique for students to be this engaging.

The boarding school teachers explained that even in this highly religious environment, the schools are multi disciplinary. #1 extra curricular activity: marching band – the girls said this! Frum, modest “tziusdik” cheer leaders…

But here’s an interesting fact:

Since 1970s Indonesia has had women judges in Islamic courts…

We came back inspired by the leaders, by the students and by our group which is excited to forge new frontiers by flying to Israel. Yes, we are also meeting with the Palestinian Authority in Ramallah and Bethlehem. But the “chidush” – the novelty – will be our time in Israel and Jerusalem, Yad Vashem and far beyond and with President Peres.

I ended off the day eating fresh lichee fruit – learning how to peel them, which is as easy as a banana. And then hair fruit and some giant leather fruit. I’ll have pictures soon.

Time to get to bed to get ready for tomorrow’s meetings where we will finalize a letter to all the heads of state about our mission. Interesting discussions no doubt.

Shalom al Yisrael and layla tov – Good night from Jakarta!

Asher Lopatin

Arrived in Jakarta, Indonesia, to sweltering Tel Aviv-in-the-summer type weather. The airport kind of feels like a tropical hotel, with walkways to customs that look out on to lawns and gardens.

After thinking about whether I should where a baseball hat (with a suit?) or my kippa, I opted for a kippa. I thought that if someone starts to give me a hard time – a guard, etc. – I would switch to a hat. But people – everyone: guards, police, people at the passport control, customs, taxi people – could not have been nicer or more gracious. Totally comfortable here.

At passport the man in the booth asked purpose of my visit – I said it was an interfaith mission with Christians and Muslims and Jew. He asked – was I Christian? No, I said, Jewish. Stamp!

The Avis taxi people got me a cab, and then when one had already been ordered by my hosts, they graciously voided my cab fair, and the Avis driver was walked me back to get my money back – no fighting or quibbling as the taxi people do in some other countries, ehem, ehem, and another man seeing my kippa said, Oh you are Jewish… First I thought he said he was Jewish, but I think he meant he was going to visit Israel, but in any case, very friendly – he was Christian. A lot of Christians around here seem to be happy to see a Jew – an even smaller minority than them. Christians are about 10%, Jews – well, there are now 25 in the country including the 5 rabbis.

Believe it or not, but Jakarta has E-toll speed pass! Looks kind of like Israel when you leave the airport with a mixture of hi rises and low rises or single family bungalow. All of Jakarta looks a lot like Tel Aviv with its slummier areas and more modern areas.

Still have the auto rickshas I remember from India 25 years ago! But on the other hand, I think an important measure of how advanced the country is can be seen by the helmets worn by motor cyclists. Every single one of the drivers – on the smallest motor scoter, moped etc. – wears a helmet – and most passengers as well.

Many people wear face masks – pollution… I think that’s an Asian thing…

Right near the hotel is the national (Catholic) cathedral, which shares a parking lot with a giant mosque. Whatever he issues may be in parts of the country between Christians and Muslims – Muslims burning down churches and not being convicted – in theory and on the ground to a great extent this country is still firmly committed to diversity.

In our opening session, getting to know each other – there are 24 us total, with 5 rabbis, and about 8 Christians, one of the members of our group, who represents that largest Muslim organization in Indonesia – 30 million members – spoke passionately about how the Western world and Islam have to come closer together, not further apart. Also, the voices here were about Islam not blaming the West for its challenges – but he hoped the West would not blame Islam either for the acts of radicals.

Another Imam said how good things were in the old days of Medina, when Muhammad “hung out” with the Jews and Christians. But I challenged this view: The Qur’an speaks over and over again about how evil the Yahud – the Jews – of Medina were. Yet another Imam gave a brilliant – homiletic, forced, perhaps, but based on the great commentator Zemachshari – that even in the Qur’an there is a difference between Al-Yahud – THE individual Jews who were so bad to Muhammad and his followers – and Yahud – Jews in general who dwelled in Medina even after Muhammad’s death. Another Muslim leader concurred. It doesn’t really matter to me what Muhammad actually meant, or what the Qur’an really meant. What is important is that I am hearing that there is a different narrative – a narrative tolerant and respectful of the Jews – that is coming out of some circles of Islam. The question is whether this progressive, embracing narrative will win, or will the intolerant rejectionist narrative of the fundamentalists win?

Discovery: Our sponsor is not the Indonesian government. We are guests of the Indonesian Ambassador to Washington, who has taken serious risks to his own career for bringing this diverse multi-faith group together and to go to the Middle East. But our sponsor is mainly a very nice TV mogul who, in honor of our group, is going to have a Muslim, Christian and a Jew on Indonesian TV tomorrow morning. This is all unprecedented. Interestingly, the TV mogul’s parents are intermarried – Muslim father, Christian mother – but it has lead him to believe that we can bridge gaps. Interesting. Even in America, where we desperately are trying to get Jews to marry Jews, sometimes something good comes out of an intermarriage… Food for thought.

Speaking of food: I was able to pass through security (carry on) with tuna and mayonnaise and flat breads – and Rabbi Julie Schohnfeld packed more tuna in her suitcase for me – so even though there really isn’t any kosher food besides fruit, I will be fine.

Ending on one sobering note: For all the divisions that Muslims have, one of the Muslim ulama’a pointed out that they all pray together. Even millions in Mecca can all pray together – whereas Jews are really finicky about where we daven – certainly outside of our denomination, but even within! But Rabbi Peter Nobel pointed out that a Reformation has never really come to Islam. So maybe we just have to give them time…

It’s bedtime in Jakarta.

Layla tov and more adventures God willing in the morning – including meeting the Foreign Minister and I hope to push him on relations with Israel.

Asher Lopatin

Gendered Expectations and the Experience of Children

Alan Krinsky

Something critical is missing in the impassioned discussions over tensions within the Orthodox world. Beyond the philosophical and halakhic divisions and debates over the she-lo asani ishah blessing and women’s participation, little or no attention has been paid to the actual experience of people, especially children.

What do children experience in regard to gender and appropriate gender roles? Do they truly believe or understand that God created men and women with differences, with different roles, but that neither men nor women are “better” than the other in some fundamental sense? That God is neither male nor female? Now, I could be far off the mark, but I do not imagine that most of our children have absorbed such sophisticated theological concepts.

What, instead, do they think and experience? Do young boys and girls genuinely hear the she-lo asani ishah blessing and understand it according to the most common explanation, that it refers to the additional mitzvos incumbent upon men? Or, do boys and girls alike learn from this and other words and practices that men are better than women in an essential sense? That, while we are all created in the image of God, men are more so than women? That at the banquet in the next world, men are sitting at the table and not women? That only a man has the potential to achieve the status of a Gadol in any sense? 

In brief, when boys say she-lo asani ishah, do they really believe they are better than girls? And do girls also believe this when they hear it?

As a member of an OU shul with a YU Rabbi, with a daughter (in an Orthodox Jewish high school) studying Gemara in the same class and at the same level as boys, I can only guess at the gender expectations of my daughter’s peers, the ones with whom she went to elementary school, a mixed Haredi and Modern Orthodox one.

As far as I can tell, the normative, expected course for these girls is graduation from high school, followed by a year at seminary, possibly a college degree part-time, and marriage and children not too long after the completion of high school. They will not become Talmudic scholars, even if more capable and inclined than many of the boys. (And these girls, even the most brilliant, will not become doctors, neither of Medicine nor of Philosophy.) In a world where this is the epitome of a life in this world, what does she-lo asani ishah mean, and what effect does it have on girls and boys?

At the least, I would suggest, we not rush to condemn Rabbis or laypersons who express their discomfort with a blessing like this and imagine a different world—one remaining squarely within the four amos of halakha, if not quite adhering to what most of us feel is traditional. We should dan lecaf zechus, give the benefit of the doubt, and take these people at their word, that they are committed to a life of mitzvos and Torah. That their concerns, even anguish, is not unreasonable. That they not be pushed out of the tent of Orthodoxy. 

The last question, one for which I have no answer, is whether or not—if such experiences are genuine—whether or not these facts should influence how we understand and even rule on the matter? And maybe, I might humbly suggest, the values our children experience and learn could be considered, even by poskim, in determining whether or not reciting the she-lo asani ishah blessing is necessary for men to remain within the tent of Orthodox Judaism, on an equal level with keeping kosher and keeping Shabbos. If this blessing, in fact, contributes towards inculcating a set of beliefs none of us hold—including that men are in some essential way “better” than women—is that itself reasonable cause for its reconsideration?

Alan Krinsky, PhD, MPH, works full-time as a Senior Analyst in the field of healthcare quality improvement, and is also a writer. He was previously a monthly columnist for Rhode Island’s Jewish Voice & Herald, and his essays have been published at The Huffington Post, in The Providence Journal, and on the online version of The Forward. He lives with his family in Providence, RI and currently serves as the President of Congregation Beth Sholom.